In recent years, fashion retailers have come under increasing amounts of pressure to address the issue of welfare in the modelling industry. With stories circulating regarding the working hours and treatment of models by even some of the world’s leading fashion houses, and rumours of photographers refusing to allow their subjects to take regular breaks, it is hardly surprising that many agencies representing this sector of the fashion industry are calling for fairer treatment whilst shoots are taking place.
Now high street favourite Debenhams has made history by becoming the first retailer to sign a code of conduct for working conditions in order to protect the rights of models participating in its campaigns. Furthermore, chief executive Michael Sharp has urged other retailers to follow in the department store giant’s footsteps.
The terms of the code of conduct were set out by models’ union Equity, and it first hit the headlines after iconic fashion magazine Vogue agreed to sign up. It contains ten points which attempt to improve the working conditions for models in all aspects of the fashion world, whether they are participating in a shoot for a single magazine spread or creating an entire store catalogue.
Most of the terms deal with on-site concerns such as the provision of food and water, an allowance of regular breaks and an agreement to arrange for nude or semi-nude shots in advance. However, the code also insists that models should not work for more than ten hours per day and sets guidelines ensuring payment schedules are adhered to.
Victoria Keon-Cohen founded the models’ branch of Equity and played a pivotal role in the creation of the code of conduct. She believes that these new rules will target retailers or magazines which previously took advantage of their models, while fair employers will not be affected.
She continues; “Vogue’s commitment has proven there is no excuse for the fashion industry not to respect Equity’s code of conduct not only for models but others who the industry as a whole influences.
“The film industry works respectfully and successfully under a regulatory framework, so why can’t fashion?”
Debenhams has long been known for its open approach to advertising, haven introduced curvier mannequins to display clothes in its commercial properties throughout the UK earlier this year. It has also banned the use of airbrushing from all of its advertising campaigns – an issue which has proven highly contentious elsewhere in the fashion world for years now.
With the retail industry currently struggling to overcome several years of recession, retailers could prove resistant to an initiative which could change the face of fashion. However, in taking this important step, Debenhams has certainly proven its commitment to the fair treatment of all employees.
Do you think the fashion industry should be bound by regulatory litigation similar to that of the film industry, or should models and retailers be allowed to define the terms of a fair contract between them without union involvement?
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